Leaving Playa Azul after just one night there was good. It was not that nice but did have a good Internet connection. We met Frank and Terry from Perth, ON, just a ½ hour West of Almonte, with their new to them ’82 Westy. We drove to Larzaro Cardenas as we needed a bank and groceries which we managed in just one stop the the Sorianas just a few blocks off the Mex 200 as we came into the city. The drive down was good and the road seemed to straighten out after all the twistys and ups and downs since Tecoman. Leaving Lazaro we took the Cuota towards Patzcuero stopping only in Nuevo Italia, a small but nice farming village, for gas, we almost ran out as we didn’t think to fill up leaving Larzaro as we expected Pemex to be on the Cuota – NOT – I mean not at all. Luckily we found some fuel at one of the toll booths so no problems ! After a very hot but pleasant ride on the luxurious Cuota without any topes through some of the most spectacular Mexican countryside we’ve seen so far. Going from the seascape through arid desert then a river dammed for Hydro power creating a vast reservoir lake which provides water for agriculture around Nuevo Italia and North. As the elevations increased to 9000 ft. in Patzcuaro more pine tree forests were in evidence and the scenery has become more Canadian mountain like. In Patzcuaro we drove around the city a while getting a feel for this quaint old place with its very narrow streets and old buildings. Eventually with the help of our Church camping guide we found Villa Patzcuaro Hotel and RV park At $16/night with hot and I mean endless hot water showers, WiFi Internet that worked in our camper; electric, water & sewer service; a short walk to the town’s two major squares and boat dock to Isla Janitzio, what more could one want. Well, heat is as it turns out. It’s cold at night in the mountains at this elevation. We had to run the Propex heater to keep warm but during the day it was just fine. We ended up staying three nights and explored the two town squares, saw the Patzquaro dancers short video clip here: http://www.youtube.com/v/nCZgoPpzbOs And the huge market and wood working shops We took the boat ride to Isla Janitzio and spent one day there exploring and were treated to wonderful live music on the ride there and back video clips here: http://www.youtube.com/v/21kexyTYa5Y and http://www.youtube.com/v/JZbmCjkaz9U and http://www.youtube.com/v/PCrf-ckOAUs

By some ill stroke of fate the boat we were to ride on was named Titanic ! Imagine that. No sinking occurred !

More photos of Patzcuaro and Isla Janitzio here: http://picasaweb.google.com/Frankcondelli/Patzcuaro

Tuesday, we left to explore around and drove to Santa Clara del Cobra a small Puebla where copper is worked into fine objects of desire. Only an hour or so south west of Patzcuaro gave us the entire afternoon to browse through the many shops and workshops where we saw how the copper was worked. We saw the beginnings of a sink and Rita ended up buying two sinks, as if we had place in our Westy for them – Ha ! More photos from Santa Clara here: http://picasaweb.google.com/Frankcondelli/SantaClaraDelCobra

From there we headed to Zirahuen as we had information there was a large lake there where we would surely find a camping spot for the night before venturing off to our next stop, Paracho. Well, this was not to be. After hours of driving down a cobblestone paved road which was indicated on our maps as a secondary road we get to the small lake side village of Zirahuen and find on camping spot but they want way too many Pesos and we opt to go looking for a free spot. Off up the dirt rock road around the lake we go and hours later we end up to where it’s practically impossible to go further. After much back and forth the in the narrow rutted road we get the van aboutface and end up going all the way back to Zirahuen to try and find the main road out towards Paracho. Eventually after driving up and down the narrow tope filled cobblestone streets we find the asphalt road out of town, thank god ! Off we go and near sunset we get to Tingambato and opt to stay in the first Pemex we find. A little noisy by the side of the road but clean restrooms.

More photos of the road to Zirahuen: http://picasaweb.google.com/Frankcondelli/Zirahuen

In the morning we head off to Paracho. The road takes us through the outskirts of Uruapan, a large metropolitan city with traffic congestion. We try to locate a WiFi hotspot to no avail and soon after a few hundred more topes we’re back on the road to Paracho a town famous for guitars. I want to see them, see them being made, touch them, and maybe buy one. We get there before noon and get to the town square as the market is in full swing. We find some of the best doughnuts we have ever had. Then in and out of shops full of guitars and every other kind of stringed instrument you can imagine and some which you cannot even think about. 4 strings, 5 strings, 6 strings, 10 strings, 12 strings, 18 strings, whatever ! Small, medium, large, and extra large in size ! We are approached by a young fellow on a bicycle who wants to take us to his workshop. We follow, up a side street, through a black door, down a long hallway and into exquisite two rooms were there are a bunch of fellows building guitars. Some of the finest craftsmanship I have ever seen. I tried a few of them over the next hour and really liked two of them but was undecided what to do. I don’t really play, and there’s really no room for a guitar in the Westy. But the price, the price was like almost free. So off we go browsing around awhile longer then decide it’s time to leave without a guitar. More photos of Paracho: http://picasaweb.google.com/Frankcondelli/Paracho

Regretful I’m sure but off we go toward Morelia and the butterflies without a Paracho guitar. We take a different secondary road from Paracho back to Patzcuaro which takes us up and over some pretty big mountains and through farming country and a village, Pichataro, where everyone is evidently a wood worker. Shops full of wood crafted objects, furniture and such. http://picasaweb.google.com/Frankcondelli/ParachoToPatzcuaro At Patzcuaro we stop for lunch at a roadside Taco stand and are treated to more live guitar music. From Patzcuaro we take the free road which is four lanes most of the way into Morelia and very pleasant and good driving through agricultural areas. In Morelia by early afternoon we spy the Wal Mart and head there for shopping and determination of where to stay for the night. Eventually we decide to drive into Morelia, see the city center, then head to a National Park not far up the road we are to take to get to see the butterflies in Angangueo. Morelia is a very large city and the traffic is huge as well. We get to the centre square and Cathedral and right there on the main street in front of one park is a parking spot – open – for us ! http://picasaweb.google.com/Frankcondelli/Morelia Park and out we go, walking for a few hours, around, looking at all the hi-fashion shops as in any other metropolitan city. Not at all what we have come to expect from our city travels up to now. Soon we find the need to leave if we want to make it to the Park before dark. We wind our way past the now out of service aqueduct with 245 or so arches. Out on the open road we find the Park about ½ hour East from Morelia. At the Park gate we find it locked. Looking around to see if we can figure out what the deal is, a gentleman in pickup comes to the gate from inside and tells us we need a permit and we can’t get it now, it’s too late ! How were we to know ! So off we go up the road in search of a camping spot. The elevation rises and the forest is dense so we expect to find a secluded spot somewhere. We approach a restaurant high in the mountains with a large open field adjacent, far from anywhere. Stop and ask and we are invited to stay in his field. We set up and have diner in the restaurant which we find had just opened a week ago ! Very nice and quiet night here in the mountains. In the morning we’re off in search of Angangueo and butterflies. The road becomes treacherous, twisting and turning ever upwards, first and second gear is all that’s possible. At the summit we must be somewhere between 9,000 and 10,000 feet. We stop at a lookout for a breath of fresh air and pictures. http://picasaweb.google.com/Frankcondelli/MoreilaToAngangueo Back on the road to Ciudad Hildago where just a bit west we are to find the road to Irimbo and Angangueo. As usual the road signs are useless and we cannot find the turn. Stopping and asking finally get us on the right road to Irimbo. It’s a fairly active town for being so high up in the mountains. Just before noon we get to Angangueo and a spectacular sight it is. At 9,000 ft. elevation most of the city is on the side of the mountain and there is no level place except in front of the Cultural Centre where we are stopped by guides wanting to be our guide to take us up the mountain to Rosariso where the trail leads up to the butterfly sanctuary. At first I insisted I could drive myself up to Rosario and after George, the fellow who insisted we should go with him instead, kept insisting it was a bad idea and finally Rita agreed and I gave up ! Park and off with George we go in his four wheel drive Ford 150 of some yesteryear vintage. Well, the road, paved for the most part out of town to Rosario is for all intense purposes one lane and pretty much vertical. After much jostling with traffic coming down we get past the city limits and the road turns to dirt & rock and big rough rocks they are. Sure happy now we are with George and his Ford rather than my Vanagon. We surely would have had a hard time and damaged the tires, undercarriage and whatever else on this road. Up, Up, and more up we arrive at Rosario and a parking lot at 10,000 ft. There we find a monster four wheel drive German built camper with decals indicating it had been just about every where on the planet. After some pictures we find the local Taco stand and have a light lunch laced with cerveza to encourage us up the mountain. We pay our admission of 35 Pesos each, leave Hunter with George and start the 1 ~ 2 hour hike up the mountain with a young guide to 11,000 ft. to see butterflies !! Right !! The first part of the hike is on a well laid out path of concrete steps with rope handrails. This turns into a dirt and rock path which is constantly being watered with hoses by workers to keep the dust down from the many tourist from all over the world walking around up there. How are they pumping the water up here is crossing my mind but soon the air and trees are filled with Monarch butterflies and who cares about water. We stop often to rest on benches provided as it is a tough hike up. Near the top the trees branches are so filled with butterflies clinging to them it’s not possible to distinguish them from the trees, they are the trees ! What a spectacular sight at the top of a mountain in a very remote part of Mexico. It’s unbelievable but true. Pictures are taken http://picasaweb.google.com/Frankcondelli/Angangueo and short video at: http://www.youtube.com/v/mOF9JatMsIY and with gasps of delight we head slowly back down. The hike down is more pleasant as it is DOWN ! We meet George & Hunter and off we go in his trusty Ford back down to Angangueo. George has by now become our friend and we end up spending the rest of the day and evening with him. He shows us where we can camp for the night in safety, where the Internet is and the best place in town for diner across form the town square. We invite him to have diner with us and eventually we end up at his house as he wants me to show him how to connect up a solar panel he has acquired. After a good nights sleep and some Internet we leave Angangueo and head down the mountain looking for another camp spot for the evening before heading back to the beaches. We have now decided it’s too far to go to Puerto Escondido and then make our way home from there, we’re tired driving and would like to find a nice beach spot and stay put. We wind up in Cuitzeo for the night after having tried to stay at Laguna Largo, a sulfur springs resort on a lake that George told us would be spectacular. Well it was, BUT, after a three hour drive up another twisty mountain road we were told that we were not allowed in as we had a DOG. NO PEROS, what’s that, we come all the way from Canada and we can’t get in because we have a DOG ! Blah ! The place was spectacular too, swimming pool filled with warm sulfur springs water, a lovely clear blue lake to paddle and fish in, and nice camping spots. Blah again ! So off we go in search of a camp again. It was at Cuitzeo on the North shore of Laguna de Cuitzeo we found it as from our maps we see a very large lake with camping indicated. Well there’s a large lake alright but finding a campspot is again not easy. Passing a restaurant we see the sign “Campimento” Turn in and inquire and soon we are on the side of the lake camping. Not the nicest place we’ve been at and after a night filled with dog barking we left in the morning for the West coast beaches, with the idea to go back to La Manzanilla and find a casita to rent until the end of March. Enough twisty roads and topes for us ! Back down the Cuota to Ixtapa this time as we thought we’d find a better spot to camp than Playa Azul or a casita for the night to get ourselves cleaned up. By late afternoon we reach Ixtapa and find our way to the brand new RV park near Playa Linda. Spick & Span and new alright with many big rigs parked in long lines. There’s a spot for dry camping, $16 per night and $10 more per night if you want WiFi Internet. Very large clean restrooms with COLD water showers. Whoa ! Expensive ! We leave to see if we can find a casita with hot water showers. We stop at Playa Linda where there is free camping in the very large parking lot surrounding the wharf. There are cold water showers and restrooms of the restaurants nearby but the place is very crowded, we move on. Other camping spots do not exist; the beach is covered solid with big hotels. We drive all the way over to Zihuatanejo to see the camp where we stayed two years ago, it’s closed., we check a few hotels nearby but they are all booked on a Saturday night, what else would you expect ? Seeing absolutely no beachside casitas to rent, we decide to go back to the Playa Linda RV Park for the night as it’s getting late and we need a place to stay soon. Back at the RV park just before sunset we take cold water showers, watch a few surfers, walk on the beach and have a conversation with the owners of the three Vixens we’re parked next to before settling in to a peaceful, quiet night. The Vixons are on a tour of Mexico with two other campers both Sprinter based, one a Sprinter Westfalia the other a Pleasure Way. I’ve never seen a Vixon before so here is a photo and website links: http://www.vixenrv.org/ and http://www.vixenrv.com/ if you’re as intrigued as I was. Sunday morning, Domingo, we leave to head back to La Manz as it is the first and only spot North of here where we know we can have a casita, good Internet and services for the next 30 days. We stop at a few beaches along the way for lunch and resting. We get in La Manz around 2:30 PM and head for Yolanda’s and a cold beer. Leon, Yolanda and others we know were all surprised to see us back. A few beers later we had a meeting with Sara, a local real estate person we met before, to see some casitas she had on her list. A call to Mike & Marianne got them down off the hill and soon we’re back in the La Manz scene. We looked at one casita before diner the other was not available to see until the next day so Mike & Marianne invited us to stay at their hilltop house for the night. Monday morning we went to look at the other casita and did not like it so opted to take the other one and that’s where we are now, see my previous post. All in all it was quite the adventure but we are sure happy to be sitting still and not watching for topes and livestock on the roads. The warmth of La Manz is also enjoyable, still one of the best places we’ve been so far in our Mexican adventures.

Frank, Rita & Hunter

List of cities below that we traveled to in the order we traveled so you can imagine our trail. I tried to make a map but was unable, sorry ! :

Playa Azul

Ciudad Lazaro Cardnas

Nuevo Italia ~ Mugica

PatzcuaroSanta Ana Del Cobra ~ Villa Escalante

Zirahuen

Tingambato

Uruapan del Progresso

Paracho de Verduzco

Pichataro

Ajuno

Patzcuaro

Morelia

Ciudad Hidalgo

Irimbo

Aporo

Angangueo

Rosario

Ciudad Hidalgo

Luguna Larga

Cuitzeo del Porvenir

Moreila

lPatzcuaro

Ixtapa

Zihuatanejo

Ciudad Lazaro Cardenas

Playa Azul

La Manzanilla

Posted on March 4th, 2008 by FrankandRita
Filed under: Rita and Frank Condelli