We left Mazatlan (Jan 24/08) and drove to El fuerte (478 km). Drove around El fuerte and then found RV de El fuerte http://www.rvmex.com/(250 pesos).  After Paul had a few cervezas with the owner Bill, we had purchased a package to Copper Canyon ($319 US each – included two nights accommodation, six meals, all transportation to/from train (does not include train), walking tour to the rim, 6-8 hour guided tour and another morning guided tour). We also had to pay for four nights at the RV Park. At the time we felt that this was very expensive and hoped for the best as we thought that this was a big gamble (you had to meet cerveza Bill!). However it was difficult to know how to best plan for this adventure and we were happy to be guided around and we felt that the van would be safe at the RV Park. FYI Paul went with Bill to his house and made a payment transaction through PayPal.

Train – http://www.chepe.com.mx/

A taxi picked us up promptly at 7:30 am and drove us to the Ferrocarril approximately 5 km out of town. Our Spanish-speaking driver promised to pick us up upon our return. The train arrived 45 minutes late – Mexican time LOL! Chepe /Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacifico, first class train from El fuerte to Posada Barrancas. We purchased our tickets on the train (506 pesos each – one way). The train is air conditioned, has very comfortable seats, two passenger cars, a bar car and a dining car.  You could stand outside in between the cars and take unobstructed pictures of the magnificent ever-changing scenery along the way (approx. 9:30 am to 3:30 pm). It felt like the train was traveling 40 to 60 km /hour (not even).  FYI: The second-class train is approximately half the price, same passenger cars, no dining/bar cars, full of Mexicans and more frequent stops. All hotel pick-ups appear to cater to first class trains. Could be considered.

Hotel Mansión Tarahumera – ” .. A giant stone castle built on the side of a mountain a few steps away from the rim of the Copper Canyon in Chihuahua, Mexico.  … explore the mountain and canyons where the shy and primitive Tarahumera Indian lives in crude log cabins and caves. The mysterious canyons conceal in their depth Indian caves and villages, old Spanish mines and modern villages.” http://www.mansionTarahumera.com.mx 

Edgar from Hotel Mansión Tarahumera greeted us at the train station in Posada Barrancas and drove us (bus) to the hotel. We had our own little rustic and cozy cabin (once we had the heat under control) and it included TV! CNN only. It was good to see an interview with the NHL league leading goal scorer – our very own Ottawa Senators – Daniel Alfredson.  Go Alfie go!!! Paul joined the walking tour to the rim, through a Tarahumera Indian village on the mountain and visited the sister hotel (this hotel offer canyon views). There were two other groups at the hotel - a RV caravan and jewellery sales people who had won a weekend trip. We paired up with another couple – Dar & Ruth from Phoenix (they had started their journey from Los Mochis). The four of us dined and toured together and we most enjoyed their company. The dining room was very colourful and had a great fireplace. The meals were simple but very good. The entertainment one night was a talented Mexican singer and guitar player. A great time was enjoyed by all especially as the Mexican guests joined in and sang many songs in Spanish. Note: It was cold and damp – morning and evenings (bring lots of comfy warm clothes), as it had been raining for three days in the canyon. Fortunately we did not get any rain during our stay.

Tours

Our wonderful personal Mexican guide Victor (spoke English) drove us to several vistas of the canyon. Many Tarahumera Indians (mainly women and children) were selling their handicrafts (beautiful baskets).  We experienced walking on a suspended bridge and glass bottom lookout that extends over the canyon.

Divisadero/Posada Barrancas

This is where we saw the most spectacular views of the canyon.  There are many handicrafts sold there.

Creel

We also had the opportunity to visit the town of Creel (Mission store, museum, etc.).  Just outside of town, we went to an “Indian reserve/village”; we saw cave dwellings (Grandfathers sleep in the caves and the families live in the houses) and the San Ignacio Mission. The Tarahumera Indians speak their own dialect, live very primitively and maintain their traditions. The women and children dress in very vibrant colours. Small Indian villages included roosters, dogs, donkey, goats, men making wooden violin instruments, women and children doing laundry on rocks and children and women selling their handicrafts (baskets, wooden violins). We saw rock formations: valley of the mushrooms and frogs. We had a shore lunch by the man made lake and we were surrounded by children and wild dogs. We did not have the opportunity to meet the medicine man but others reported an interesting visit.

Our train ride back to El fuerte was also very enjoyable. It was a pleasure to have our taxi driver waiting for us holding up a card with our name on it. Our van was found intact. We had a cerveza with Bill back at the RV Park and expressed our satisfaction with the organization of the tour. Our only dissatisfaction was expressed regarding the payment of RV parking for four days (local hotels for approx. 690 pesos include secure parking if you stay there two nights).

Summary

We were very pleased with our adventure to Copper Canyon. There are many canyons leading to Copper Canyon (majestic however not as colourful as the Grand Canyon). We were very impressed with the Tarahumera Indians. If you look carefully in the canyons you can see at a distance little Indian villages (2-3 homes only) - viewed at night when you can spot the fires. Some children walk many km to go to school – and some even go to boarding schools.  The accommodations, the meals and the personalized tours were great (we drove many places that we may not have known about, have access to without a vehicle and would not have been accessible with our Eurovan). The train ride was beautiful and we met many travellers.  This trip was a good introduction to Copper Canyon. If time permitted, we would consider driving to Creel (distance and road conditions unknown but we saw many large RVs in town) as we would enjoy spending more time in the canyon and would have loved the opportunity to do some hiking and join tours down in the canyon. I hope that you enjoyed our journey to Barranca del Cobre!  Linda & Paul

Enjoy a few pictures  http://picasaweb.google.com/PlanteTardif/CopperCanyonBarrancaDelCobre

Posted on February 5th, 2008 by platar
Filed under: Linda Plante & Paul Tardif